Sylvia Beach Hotel

Picture this: a writer sits in a comfy leather chair by a window over looking the sea, in a room of well-worn sofas, reading lamps, and side tables. Pictures of other writers, legendary ones, grace the walls. Outside, a small tempest rages. Rain smacks the windows and the wind shakes the building, felt strongly in this third floor salon. The sea is the color of slate and the waves pound the deserted beach. The writer is blissfully alone, warmed by the heat that issues forth from a vent by her feet. A cup of chamomile tea perches on a small table nearby. She tries not to be distracted by the perfection of the moment which almost seems staged to suit a writer of her ilk. She taps on her computer keyboard, and her novel unfolds beneath her fingers. If only the moment could last forever. 

This was my moment, the hour I was able to dedicate to my writing during our brief visit to the Sylvia Beach Hotel in Newport, Oregon. It's a hotel for readers and writers, dedicated to authors and books. Each room is named for an author and its decor reflects that writers aesthetic. Jon and I stayed in the Melville room, conveniently on that same third floor of the salon where I found myself miraculously alone during my writing hour. Why didn't I have more than an hour? Because there were other things to accomplish on this overnight getaway we allowed ourselves  in mid-March, 2021, a year into the Covid pandemic. 

This is what we did during the 24 hours of our trip:

Left Portland around 10:15 am. Drove to Lincoln City, on the coast. Arrived at 12:30.

Got to-go salads for lunch from McMenamin's and ate in the car overlooking the beach. 

Went for a long walk on said beach. 

Drove the half an hour further south to Newport. 

Arrived at Sylvia Beach Hotel at 2:30, at which time they let us check in, a half an hour early. 

Took a walk on Nye Beach and explored the little village around the hotel. 

Ensconced ourselves for an hour of writing time - Jon did his in the room. 

Relaxed in the library on the fourth floor and explored the books there. 

Drove into Newport to get a couple of things we needed and then picked up fish and chips from a restaurant in the Nye Beach village. 

Ate in our room. 

Ventured back into the salon where Jon made a fire in the fireplace. 

With the place still to ourselves, we lounged in front of the fire, laughing our heads off, drinking the hot mulled wine the hotel provides. 

Retired to our room.

Morning: Woke up, showered, and ate breakfast. 

Took another walk on the beach.

Checked out at 10:15.

Arrived home, 12:30. 

I don't know if you can tell simply by reading the itinerary, or by the description of my writing hour in the salon, but the trip was completely and absolutely perfect. The Sylvia Beach Hotel is a must-visit for anyone who loves books. If you check the website below, you can view out the different rooms but, just to give you an idea, author-themed rooms include Melville, as mentioned, Jane Austen, Emily Dickinson, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hemingway, Alice Walker, Jules Verne, Ken Kesey, and many more. We chose the Melville room not only because we're big Moby Dick fans, but also because it is the only room in the hotel with a king sized bed, plus lots of sea-inspired antiques, and a cute dining/reading nook. 

There is no elevator in the four-story hotel, so you have to be able to climb stairs, or you can stay in the rooms on the first floor. There are also no TVs, phones, or Wifi in the rooms, but there's cell service in abundance. There is a restaurant on the premises where you can reserve a table for dinner. We opted not to because of the pandemic but they assured us there was plenty of social distancing, and, of course, masks were required in all public spaces in the hotel. We also could have had breakfast in the dining room but we were being extra cautious, so they delivered it to our room, boxed up neatly: a delicious quiche, turkey sausage, and potatoes. Coffee and tea is available for free in the snack room any time you want it - serve yourself. 

Every single thing about our stay was ideal and we can't wait to go back. As a result, I rate the Sylvia Beach Hotel: Extraordinarily sincere!

sylviabeachhotel.com

Bernards Farms, Oregon

I have to admit to my own preconceptions and prejudices. I tend to think people who live in rural places, especially rural Oregon, will be more conservative in their politics and values. This was what I assumed about the people who run Bernards Farms, a farm and produce stand (in a barn) about 5 miles outside of McMinnville, Oregon, which is about 45 minutes southwest of Portland. Having been a Portlander for about 5 years now, I enjoy the extremely progressive atmosphere that infuses this town. Whenever we go outside its environs, to partake of the many scenic wonders nearby: the coast, Mt. Hood, etc., I always feel a bit wary that I might come across people much less liberal than I'm used to. Not that that makes them bad, but I am comfortable in my little bubble. 

Whenever we drive to the beach town of Lincoln City, we stop at Bernards Farms. They grow hazelnuts there, and sell them for less than you can buy them in the Portland stores, plus the fact that they're fresh and delicious. We use them to make hazelnut milk as they are much more sustainable than almonds. Did you know that? They require much less water (almonds need a ton!), don't need pesticides and besides, they're a local crop. Bernards Farms also sells produce in season, walnuts, honey etc. 

We were passing by last March, basically the day the Coronavirus lockdown was put into place in Oregon (we were not yet aware it had happened), on our way to the beach, and stopped at Bernards Farm as usual. The produce stand was open, but there was no-one there. A sign asked that you leave cash or a check in a box, and take what you want. Wow. That struck me as pretty darn sincere - and trusting - as there was probably thousands of dollars of nuts and produce. The problem was, I had neither cash nor a check. So I took two pounds of hazelnuts, and left a note that I would call them and give them my credit card over the phone or send a check. The lady who answered the phone said to just send a check and I did. That right there gets them a pretty high sincerity rating, plus the fact that their hazelnuts are amazing. 

Then the Black Lives Matters protests started after the killing of George Floyd and we didn't get back down to the beach for a while. The next time we did though, in late July, we of course stopped by Bernards Farms. Everything was as nice as usual, the employees back at their jobs, wearing masks, and being safe - and over the register two huge signs: One said Black Lives Matter, the other was this one: 

 

I was impressed. My favorite farm stand also stood proud in support of their values - those that I believe to will move our country closer to "justice for all." 

Thank you, Bernards Farms. Your evaluation: Extraordinarily sincere! 

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Conin Mexican Cuisine

This article was intended to be run in the December issue of the SW Connection. Through a series of rather bizarre lapses in communication, it was not included. Beyond that, our relationship with the paper has now been severed. We wish the Southwest Connection and it's new Editor, Mr. Bill Gallagher the very best in the new year. Mr. Gallagher, by the way, is starting a "Letters to the Editor" column. If you wish to contact him: bgallagher@pamplinmedia.com

Okay then... In mid-September I received a tip from a reader, Katie Songer, about a place here in Southwest Portland that was simply not on my radar in any way. One of the reasons for that, I suppose, is that it’s a little bit difficult to find, even when you know the address on Barbur Blvd. Honestly, I looked, and looked and even drove right past it several times without seeing it. Part of that had to do with the direction I was traveling in. I was heading South on Barbur, knowing that it had to be on the West side of the street to my right, however the place is most cleverly tucked away in a small cluster of shops. To see it when heading South, is very much like merging onto the Ross Island Bridge off of Natio. You have to know how situate your car perpendicularly to do it, right? In the case of finding Conin Mexican Cuisine for the first time, head North, notice that the UPS store is on your right, and look to the left. There it is! Ta-da!

Let it be known, Conin Mexican Cuisine is a destination I’m only reluctantly sharing with you. The reason I hesitate is that, once known, it’s going to be much harder to get in. Fortunately, they offer reservations.

Georgina and I decided to have dinner early on Saturday night. The wind was blowing, and, because I’d just had the car washed, a light rain was beginning to fall. It was already dark in anticipation of the time-shift taking us back an hour. Not having been to Conin before, we could only hope that our intrepid, five-minute journey into the desperate wilds of Southwest Portland would be rewarded with something more than just okay.

Because of our early timing, we were the first people in the place, and, frankly, entering an empty restaurant can have something of a chilling effect, if you know what I mean? Gah, perhaps it was empty for a reason! How wrong that possibility turned out to be. To be clear, stepping in out of the weather we found ourselves in the cozy, quite beautiful interior: traditional Mexican music played gently in the background. In one corner over the full bar, two flat screens silently displayed soccer and football. By way of the time of the year, there was a lovely Ofrenda (Día de Los Muertos/Day of the Dead - offering table) set up against one wall, honoring those who are no longer with us. In this simple welcoming environment, we felt immediately at home and were greeted most warmly. What a great intimate place this would be for a party!

I started with a stellar Margarita served in a Mason jar with a handle. Georgina had a Pacifico from the tap. To keep us happily occupied while we made our decisions, fresh corn chips were placed on the table along with an excellent salsa, which thankfully contained only a hint of cilantro (allergic, you see). I ordered Tacos de Pescado: three slightly crispy shells generously filled with fish and the house’s special toppings, sprinkled with cotija cheese. Georgina had the carne asada version. Each of these dishes, and I cannot stress this enough, were O.M.G. extraordinary and delicious. Oh, and did I mention the churros made-to-order in-house? I should have!  

Katie, closed her letter to me with this, “…since we love it so much, we selfishly want it to thrive so it'll stay in business and we can keep eating there for many years.” Well I couldn’t agree more, however, Katie I would suggest this is something of a double-edged sword. An hour or so later when Georgina and I were leaving, the dining room was very nearly packed, and other rain-drenched cars were eager to contest the spot we were making available in the small parking area. People who know about Conin – know about Conin.

Rating: Extraordinarily Sincere

For reservations call: 971-808-5627

eMail: conin@coninpdx.com 

9111 SW Barbur Blvd, Portland, OR 97219

Site: http://www.coninpdx.com  

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If you know of a business or person anywhere on the planet you think might meet our criteria please send their information to me jon@searching4sincerity.com. I can’t promise to write about them though, as that in itself would be, well, you know… insincere.

Medley Tea House Cafe

As promised, I'm back to feature another one of the treasures to be found in Multnomah Village, SW Portland. Every time my husband and I make the 10 minute walk from our house to the Village we're charmed at how bustling and lively it is, and have come to truly rely on many of the businesses there several times in a week. Our bank (local to the Pacific NW) is there, as is our doctor's office, as well as the holistic pet food store where we buy kitty food, the card shop which is often helpful for special occasions, a great little book store, a fantastic toy store for our nephew and niece, and, of course, the many really excellent restaurants that we've come to love.

Today's post focuses on Medley Tea House Cafe - so much more than just tea! The first time we stopped in there for brunch was because Fat City Cafe (see previous post) was too busy and we didn't want to wait for a table. This cozy, low-ceilinged restaurant would be right at home in a rural English village - and not in a cloying way at all. Decorated with all kinds of teapots, it's sunny, each table is different, and you can choose just the one that suits you. You can relax there with a cup of tea or coffee, or you can order food from their tantalizing and varied menu.

I love their Fediezeldicker Breakfast Plate with genuinely silken scrambled eggs...I wish I knew how they got them like that! Served with bacon, rosemary home fries and toast, it's the perfect breakfast. Julio's Breakfast Bowl is also delicious, with garlic and onion infused rosemary potatoes, chunks of bacon, spinach and sun dried tomatoes, topped with two fried eggs. There are also health smoothies on the menu, crepes, a breakfast sandwich, bagels and more. And since I'm usually traveling in the company of gluten-free diners, Medley is perfect because they have a truly delectable selection of gluten-free scones, both savory and sweet, as well as other pastries and desserts, both vegan and otherwise. Lunch, served from 11:00 every weekday, features soups, salads and sandwiches, and brunch from 9-2:00 on weekends offers a variety of Eggs Benedict dishes, Chocolate French Toast and other delights. Some day, I'm determined to stop in for afternoon tea between 2 and 5 when they offer, besides their other yummy scones and pastries, finger sandwiches, crepes, and afternoon tea platters with an assortment of the above. I'm sure that no matter how proper I might feel partaking, the experience will still have that wonderful, relaxed Portland vibe about it which Medley seems to accomplish so perfectly.

To me, one of the funnest things about Medley is that, if you order tea from their vast tea menu, you get to choose your own pot and cup! This may sound a little girly, but even my rock-musician son was excited about it.

The service is friendly and attentive and the prices just right. We now make Medley a destination, rather than an over-flow spot. If you're looking for both charm and flavor, this is the place!

Evaluation: 
Very sincere

7881 SW Capitol Hwy, Portland, OR 97219
medleytea.com

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Fat City Cafe

Well folks, Jon and I have made quite the shift in lifestyle. We up and moved out of NYC, all the way across the country to Portland, OR! This is a spectacular place to live, we're finding, and so full of sincere establishments we've been too overwhelmed to single a particular one out for this blog. However, since we've been here now a couple of months, it's time to start sharing with you the many amazing businesses in this beautiful, Pacific NW town. Jon did a post yesterday, which you'll see below, and here's my first of what I'm sure will be many:

The morning after we arrived at our new home in Portland, we headed out to breakfast at Fat City Cafe, in the adorable Multnomah (pronounced: mult-NOH-mah) Village, which is a pleasant 15 minute walk from our house. Multnomah Village (MV) resides in the southwest area of Portland, the outer-lying environs of which are perhaps not highest on the Portland hipness scale, yet MV, along with the nearby community of Hillsdale, are actually kind of magnets for the hip set, not only because they're just so darn quaint (which hipsters ironically rather like) but because of the exceptional restaurants and pubs that abound.

When checking out the area during our house search a couple of months before, Fat City Cafe had called to us among those many eateries, so we had been looking forward to trying it. It's a cozy spot, serving breakfast, brunch and lunch only, with maybe ten or so tables, and seats at the counter. The walls are covered with license plates from around the country as well as other photos and bric-a-brac, but it manages to not be annoyingly kitchy. The servers are super friendly and made us feel warm and welcome right away. The day of our first visit, we both ordered a basic breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast (gluten free for Jon), and were delighted by how delicious it all was. The prices are amazing too, especially because Jon, being an oldster, had the same bacon and eggs under the heading of "Geezer Grub," so it was cheaper still.

We've eaten there a handful of times since and have loved everything we've tried, though we haven't done lunch yet, only breakfast. As a matter of fact, lunch gets pretty crowded there, as does brunch on the weekends so we mainly just go during the week so as to not have to wait. On that first day we went, we noticed that by 11:30 the place was already filling up with bearded, man-bunned types and their goth girlfriends. If the crowd prevents you from getting a table, however, don't hesitate to try one of the other great brunch spots in the village, none of which have disappointed yet. I'll get to those eventually, but for now, there's no doubt that I rate Fat City Cafe: Extraordinarily sincere!

FatCityCafe.Org
7820 SW Capital Hwy, Multnomah Village
SouthWest Portland, OR
503-245-5457

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Burgerville, Portland Oregon

Though we tend to reject chain stores and restaurants as inherently insincere, we were introduced to one that breaks the mold when we visited my family in Portland, Oregon two summers ago. It's called Burgerville and it can be found throughout Oregon and Southen Washington. Doing some research on the web, I found some recent lousy reviews, but I assume the quality changes from location to location. What stands out about Burgerville is that they use mostly local ingredients and are conscientious, as far as I could tell, about how these local sources grow their food and seem to generally strive towards sustainability in their business practices.

On our visit there I had the Wild Smoked Salmon and Hazelnut Salad, featuring those locally grown and caught items as well as local Tillamook Cheese amongst lots of fresh greens. It was reasonably priced and very yummy. I did not indulge in things like the Pepper Bacon Cheeseburger which features, like all their burgers, locally raised, antibiotic and hormone-free beef nor the Oregon marionberry or blackberry shake, in- season berry lemonade or Walla Walla Onion Rings, but I was assured all were spectacular. The atmosphere was cute and old fashioned, the staff - well - I don't remember, but certainly not surly, and I remember wishing that more places like it existed.

When I think of our visit there, more than anything, it makes me think fondly of Portland in general - one of the most sincere cities I know. I believe it is officially the "greenest" city in the U.S. Even the airport is a delight. I'm sure there are tons of good and sincere restaurants in Portland, but until we can return for more investigation, Burgerville will have to do for now. Big shout out to Portland! We love you!

Evaluation: Kind of sincere



www.Burgerville.com